DIY Projects

Quick and Easy Chicken Wire Frame

posted by Andrea | 02/9/2012 | 2 comments

A few years ago, I was trying to come up with a creative way to display all the Christmas cards we had received… AND I was looking for a decorative piece to go above our piano.  I wanted something that was inexpensive {in case I decided I didn’t like it} and I wanted it ASAP.

My first stop was to a local craft store that always has 75-90% off clearance racks. These sales are “hit or miss” so I was thrilled to find the 90%-off rack was filled with scratched and broken picture frames… none of which had any glass left in them.

I found a huge 36″ x 48″ black frame that was really scratched up for only $9 {originally $90}!! I honestly didn’t know exactly what I was going to do with the frame, but it was the perfect size for above the piano, I love black, and I just couldn’t resist that kind of a deal!

Once I got the frame home, I used a dry brush to brush on a little gold paint around inside edge {this also covered up most of the scratches}. Then I used a wire cutters to cut a piece of chicken wire for the inside of the frame.

I simply used a staple gun to staple the wire to the backside of the frame… and I was done! 

It’s been at least two years since I made the first frame, and since then, I’ve made many more for gifts and other places around our home.

It’s just such a quick, easy, and super inexpensive project that almost anyone can do in a matter of minutes. Of course you can use different sizes and colors to coordinate with your space, and you could even spray paint the chicken wire for a completely different look.

There are SO many different uses for a chicken wire frame…

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  • Use one to display Christmas cards, birthday cards, or any other type of card
  • Use one to display artwork, school projects, or other memorabilia {one for each child’s room!}
  • Use one to hang jewelry, scarves, or other light-weight accessories
  • Use one to display a collection
  • Use one to showcase your favorite family photos {maybe like a family tree or collage}
  • Give it as a gift for a newly married couple or student going off to college

And the list goes on…

I’m guessing that many of you already have an unused frame sitting around your house right now…  right! Well, with a small piece of inexpensive chicken wire and about 15 minutes of your time, you could transform that frame into a really fun piece for your home {and I guarantee it will catch people’s attention!}

What would you use this frame for?

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Filed under: DIY ProjectsHouse and Home

DIY No Sew Napkins

posted by Andrea | 02/2/2012 | 4 comments

A few months ago, I mentioned that we almost always use cloth napkins at our house. And after reading the comments, it sounds like many of you also use cloth napkins.

However, I did receive a few emails and comments that suggested cloth napkins were too expensive.

I got our cloth napkins as gifts so I’ve never really priced them out… but if you are looking for REALLY cheap {possibly even free} cloth napkins, you might want to check out this simple tutorial for No-Sew Cloth Napkins.

I can’t believe never thought about making my own cloth napkins from old shirts! Wouldn’t it be fun to mix and match colors and patterns to make a set? What a great gift idea too!

And if you don’t have any old shirts you are willing to cut up, I’m sure you can find a bunch at your local thrift store for probably $1 each.

Oh, and if you have unused t-shirts you want to re-purpose, you should read what I do with ours!

photo credit

Filed under: DIY ProjectsHouse and Home

Tips to QUICKLY Give Furniture a Distressed Look

posted by Andrea | 11/12/2011 | 3 comments

One of my favorite hobbies is to paint and distress furniture — which is interesting, because it’s not something I EVER saw my parents do, and I honestly wouldn’t even consider myself to be overly creative or crafty.

However, my desire for “old farmhouse style” on a very limited budget forced me to get creative and start making my own “distressed furniture” from cheapy Craigslist finds! 

And over the past five years, I’ve become a much better painter, learned many new techniques, and figured out how to REALLY streamline and simplify the whole process — betcha that doesn’t surprise you though :)

 

Here are 3 of my favorite SIMPLE furniture distressing techniques:

1. Stain/Glaze Technique: used on green armoire

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I found this armoire on Craigslist and I immediately snatched it up. Yes, I know it’s ugly and made out of particle board, but it was only $20 and I was able to transform it into a make-shift mudroom!

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Clean the wood/board with denatured alcohol to remove any oil, grease, and dirt.

2. Remove doors, hinges, knobs, etc.

3. Paint 2 coats of whatever color you want the cabinet to be. Let Dry!

4. Use an old rag or t shirt to rub a dark brown stain or glaze over the paint

5. Make sure you really work the stain or glaze in with a “random” motion so it doesn’t look too perfect.

NOTE: If you use glaze, it will probably “harden up” quite quickly and then you’re finished. However, if you use stain, it will NOT soak in and will become very sticky. Once it gets sticky, move onto the next step.

6. Use a foam brush to apply one or two coats of polyurethane directly over the sticky stain {The stain will not soak into the paint so unless you do the polyurethane over top, your furniture will stay sticky!}

You can see the difference before {left} and after the glaze. I love the deeper green color after the glaze!

TOTAL TIME: 

About 3 hours plus drying time.

 

2. Dry Brush Technique: used on our changing table

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This was another fantastic Craigslist find. It’s an absolutely gorgeous, solid wood, Bassett dresser, and I loved everything about it… except the stain {very yellowy and NOT my style at all.}

However the structure was great, I loved the chunky wooden knobs, and it was literally the perfect size for our nursery — so I painted it red and then distressed it!

INSTRUCTIONS: 

1. Clean the wood/board with denatured alcohol to remove any oil, grease, and dirt.

2. Remove drawers, knobs, etc.

3. Paint 2 coats of your “base color” {mine was red}. Let Dry!

4. Use a VERY dry brush and get a VERY small amount of white or lighter colored paint on the tips of the bristles.

5. With a light “stroking” motion, quickly and gently “dry-brush” the white paint over the base color… always going in the same direction.

6. While the white paint is still a little damp, you can go over it with a steal wool to get an even more distressed look… or just leave it “as is”.

TOTAL TIME: 

About 2 hours plus drying time.

 

3. Steal Wool Technique: used on our nightstand

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Sorry, I don’t have any “before” pictures of this one!

This nightstand is another solid wood piece I snatched up for only $10 on Craigslist — and it was already stained a really, really deep brown. I loved the stain color but wanted to lighten it up a bit so it didn’t blend in with our floors.

INSTRUCTIONS: 

1. Clean the wood/board with denatured alcohol to remove any oil, grease, and dirt.

2. Remove drawers, knobs, etc.

3. Choose a contrasting paint color — if your furniture is a light stain, then choose a dark paint. If it’s a dark stain, choose a lighter paint.

4. Paint 2 coats of paint over the entire piece {I obviously left the top unpainted but that was just my choice}.

5. Wait until the paint is ALMOST DRY and then use a piece of steal wool to gently rub off the paint on the corners, around the handles, or anywhere else you want to look distressed.

I used the same technique on this night stand too.

TOTAL TIME: 

About 30 minutes plus drying time.

 

The Materials I Use:

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I almost always use Behr paint from Home Depot — and I ALWAYS stock up on Labor Day and Memorial Day because they have great rebates at that time. You can just purchase a bunch of un-tinted paint and then when you’re ready to paint something, go back to the store and have it tinted.

I use semi-gloss or satin for all my furniture projects, and rarely waste the money for primer!

 

I use whatever brushes and rollers I can get free after rebate from Menards — and I’ve never had any issues! I do always look for the 2″ angled brushes for furniture though.

 

For furniture, I use these 4″ foam rollers because they allow me to get into tight places, and they leave a really smooth finish.

And as you can see, I don’t spend a lot of money on paint trays and buckets — just simple paper plates and disposable food containers!

 

See, I told you it was simple!

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I know a lot of people are intimidated by painting anything… let alone furniture. But I want to assure you that you can do this!

Just find a piece of furniture for super cheap at a thrift store or on Craigslist and give it a try. If you totally fail, you haven’t wasted much except your time. And I guarantee you’ll get better with every piece you paint!

Have you ever tried painting furniture?

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DIY Baby Quilt – It Turned Out SO Cute!

posted by Andrea | 10/24/2011 | 12 comments

Our nursery is so close to being finished, but I’m NOT going to give you the full tour just yet…

However, I WILL show you the super cute baby quilt that I made out of mostly scrap fabric {for a total of $8.00}!

So there’s the quilt — and I’m simply ecstatic with how well it turned out! 

I used white fabric from old sheets, curtains, and a shower curtains to get all the different patterns and textures {which you can see better in some of the photos below}.

And even though the quilt looks fantastic, let me reassure you that is was really very easy to make {I did it on a Friday afternoon}

 

DIY Quilt Tutorial:

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I didn’t use a pattern and I didn’t really have any instructions to follow, but it’s honestly so straight-forward that I know anyone with basic sewing skills and a sewing machine could do this!

STEP #1: Cut Your Strips of Fabric.

I used 3 different white fabrics and cut a variety of 7″ and 4″ wide strips that were all about 28″ in length {which is the size if our crib mattress}. You could obviously make the quilt as big or as small as you want, but just make sure you know what you want your finished product to look like BEFORE you start cutting!

I alternated different sizes and textures just based on what I thought looked nice, so you can be your own designer and get as creative as you want!

 

STEP #2: Sew Strips Together:

You only need to know how to sew a relatively straight line!

You will also want to make sure that you plan for the “seam allowance” when you cut your strips. I cut mine at 7″ and 4″ wide so that after each side was sewn together it would be about 6″ and 3″.

Once all the strips were sewn together, I ironed the seams flat to make sure the top of the quilt laid nicely.

 

Because all the fabric is white, it was really hard for me to get a good picture of the fabric details; so I made this photo black and white which helps a little. You can see the different lace trim, raised polka dots and the ruffles {that seriously took me forever to make but are SO worth it!!}

 

STEP #3: Sew The Front, Back, and Batting Together.

I call this a baby “quilt”, but it technically involves no “quilting” — just several straight lines {see I told you it was easy!}

Although I got almost all the fabric for free, I did have to buy the batting for the inside of the quilt, but it’s only about $2 per yard and I didn’t even need a full yard! I used part of an old white flannel sheet for the back of the quilt to make it really soft and add a little extra warmth.

Once I had all 3 layers {front, batting, back} sandwiched together, I simply sewed a straight line right next to the seams for each fabric strip — so approximately every 3-6 inches {see dotted lines below}. Then I sewed around the edge of the entire quilt and trimmed off any extra fabric.

You don’t need to worry about finishing the edges or making them look nice because the blanket binding will cover all the rough edges. This is also really nice because it means you don’t need to sew the quilt inside out and then try to flip it and shove the batting in.

 

STEP #4: Sew the Blanket Binding Around the Edge. 

This is the most complicated step… but still not too bad. I purchased one package of white silky “blanket binding” which was about $6 and saved me a ton of time.

Blanket binding is the silk fabric that often goes around the edges of blankets {see photo below}. It comes in a bunch of different colors and it is already pre cut, pre folded, and it won’t fray so you can simply sew it right over the edge of the quilt to hide any imperfections or ugly edges!

The tricky part is figuring out how to get the corners just right, and I’m not exactly positive I did it “right” but I followed this video to “help me out” and I think it turned out OK!

 

The Finished Quilt:

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Since I did this project completely without a pattern or any idea of how it would turn out, and I was a bit nervous. However, I figured that with an $8 investment, I wouldn’t be out too much if it didn’t turn out!

The quilt looks stunning in my Jenny Lind crib {which I’ll show you when I take you on the full nursery tour!} and I made it using my Grandma’s sewing machine so it will really be a special addition to our nursery and hopefully I’ll be able to use it for all our children.

What do you think?

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Do you {or did you} have a special hand-made item that you or a close relative made specifically for your children?

Filed under: DIY ProjectsHouse and Home

DIY Shaker Peg Towel Hooks

posted by Andrea | 10/6/2011 | 3 comments

A couple weeks ago, I showed you my super simple curtain makeover in our master bathroom — and I received more comments, emails, and questions about the Shaker Peg towel hooks underneath the  windowsill than I did about the curtains!

We love these pegs, and apparently so do you… so back by popular demand, here is the mini tutorial on how to make your own Shaker Peg towel hooks!

 

STEP #1 = Gather Your Materials:

I used 3″ long shaker pegs and a 1″x4″ piece of wood that I painted white to match our window trim exactly. You can use whatever length of board you want, but I usually space out the pegs by around 4″ for shorter boards and around 6″ for longer boards. And if you’re using a shorter board, make sure it fits at least 3 pegs because 2 just looks funny!

 

STEP #2 = DRILL:

If you buy traditional style Shaker Pegs {available at any hardware store} you will need to drill a 1/2″ wide hole — however make sure you read the packaging before you start drilling.

I always put another board underneath the board I’m drilling because in order to get the hole deep enough for the pegs, the sharp tip of the drill bit will end up going through the back of the board.

 

STEP #3 = PAINT:

I like to paint the hooks before I glue them in place because otherwise you have the potential to get globs of paint on the board. So I simply hold the pegs by the end that is inserted into the board, paint the peg with 2 coats of paint, and let dry.

STEP #4 = GLUE:

Once the paint is dry, I dab a SMALL about of Gorilla Glue on the bottom of the peg and a little more inside the hole.

Then I press the peg firmly into the hole and hold for a few seconds. This will be an extremely strong bond within a minute or two, and unless you have children hanging on these pegs, they should hold just about anything!

 

STEP #5 = HANG:

We used a nail gun to attach these pegs directly over top of our existing window trim — I think that gives it an extra custom look.

You could also counter-sink holes and then screw the board into your wall. Either way, you’ll want to make sure to nail/screw it into studs so it doesn’t pull away from your wall.

 

STEP #6 = CAULK

If you are going for a totally custom look, you’ll want to caulk or puddy any nail holes and any visible cracks/seems. Once the caulk dries, do a quick sand over those areas, and apply one final coat of paint.

That’s it — you’re finished! 

 

I was actually so pleased with the first set of hooks that I made a second set for another wall in our bathroom. This one only has 3 pegs but is great for hanging our robes, PJ’s, or extra towels when we’re taking a shower or getting ready.

 

This entire project cost less than $5 to make since I already had white paint and a few extra pieces of 1×4 left over from our trim. However, even if you had to buy the wood and the paint, it will still be a really inexpensive project — and it just looks SO much cuter than traditional towel bars cluttering up every wall!

A Simple Curtain Tutorial

posted by Andrea | 09/20/2011 | 6 comments

Yesterday I showed you one black and white picture of the curtains I made for the small window in our master bathroom. And today, I’ll show you just how ridiculously simple they were to make! 

We honestly don’t even need curtains in our bathroom because it’s just trees and lots of grass outside… however it’s kind of weird not to have curtains in the bathroom. So after contemplating what type of window treatments I should use {I thought about using old shutters but couldn’t find the right size} I headed to my scrap fabric bin and pulled out an old white sheet — yes, an old white sheet — and made the simple curtains below.

Nothing special…yet!

Side Note: I’m obsessed with white, so I stock up on plain white sheets whenever they go on sale {I can often get flat sheets for only a few bucks} and then use these sheets to make pretty much everything I sew!

Although I love white, I didn’t want “plain white curtains” since so much of our bathroom is already white, off-white, cream, and beige. They needed a little something extra.

So I decided to add some very inexpensive burlap fabric to the top {it’s about $2 – $3 per yard!}

 

I also added wooden buttons with a piece of twine tied through the button holes.

However, I didn’t want to sew the buttons and the burlap onto the curtains in case I needed or wanted to wash them at some point {which I’m assuming I will want to do}. So, I totally “cheated” and pinned the buttons onto the curtains, and in the process, was able to secure the burlap in between the buttons and the white fabric!

 

The piece of twine provided a nice spot for the pin to grab onto, and by evenly spacing the buttons every few inches, you honestly can’t even tell that the burlap is just pinned  on.

 

Aren’t they cute!! 

 

 

I’m thrilled with the end results, and even happier that this entire project took me less than an hour and cost about $1.65 {I had the buttons and twine already, and the curtain was just an old sheet}

 

And if you don’t sew, this technique would work great on curtains you already have too — so it could literally be a no-sew project if you wanted it to be!

What are your favorite no-sew projects and/or inexpensive decorating tips?

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How to Make Paint Brushes Last Longer

posted by Andrea | 04/6/2011 | comment

For the past 3 months, Dave and I have been in the process of renovating our 120 year old farmhouse {yes, it seems like forever to us too!} And you better believe we’ve done our fair share of painting – in this house and our old house.

I personally don’t mind painting, I actually find it somewhat relaxing, especially if I have a nice brush that fits my hand well and has strong bristles that don’t “shed” or “flop around”.

However, a nice brush can be expensive — and I’m really frugal! So I do my best to make my paint brushes last as long as possible.

Here’s what I do:

1. Limit the dip.

I try not to dip the bristles into more than 1 inch of paint – especially if I’m only painting a small area. This makes clean up so much easier and I have better control over the paint

 

2. Keep them covered.

I always wrap my brushes in plastic wrap while I’m in the middle of a project to assure they don’t dry out.

 

3. Clean them immediately.

When I’m finished with a painting project, I wash my brushes immediately with soapy water {or paint thinner for oil-based paints}

It’s actually not good to let your brushes soak for long periods of time as this can warp the wooden handles.

 

4. Let them fully dry.

It’s best if your brushes can hang to dry with the bristles facing down. However, you can also lay them on a double layer of towels to soak up extra moisture. I also like to “comb” my brushes to make sure the bristles don’t get matted or tangled

Then, once they are totally try, I wrap them in plastic wrap again to keep the bristles from hardening up.

 

5.  Store them properly.

Again, it’s great if you can hang your brush so they don’t get smashed or broken. However, if that’s not possible, simply lay them flat or put them back in the cardboard container they came in.

 

Using these tips should help keep your paint brushes in mint condition for several painting projects.

If you’re interested, you can see some of the very simple painting “tools” I use over here… and read more about the process of painting furniture here.

Do you have any other tips for making a paint brush last longer?

 

{top image credit}

Filed under: DIY ProjectsHouse and HomeMisc.